The ger (rhymes with bear), has been part of the Mongolian landscape for thousands of years. Genghis Khan (1162-1227), the founder of the Mongol empire, and his armies used gers during their military campaigns. The word ger in Mongolian means “dwelling.” They are white, round shaped, and have a conical roof, and they are easily assembled and disassembled so that the Nomads can follow their herds throughout the year. Our hosts explained that breakdown or set up takes about an hour. Life in the Mongolian ger is as varied as the families that dwell within.
Warmth from Layers
The frame of the ger is made from wooden latticework and then covered with cotton-style canvas. Next, layers of thick sheep wool woven with grass are strapped into place. The amount of layers depends on the season. Nights, in the summer time, can be cool so many families add at least one layer of wool. If it is hot, the center of the roof can be opened and the lower layers near the ground can be tied up to allow ventilation and cool breezes. The outside layer of the ger is covered with a water proof canvas that is secured by tension straps and braided horse hair ropes. The shape of the ger is important because it deflects the brunt of the wind. The Mongolian climate can be harsh and unforgiving.
The Hearth
The heartbeat of the family ger comes from the center hearth where heat, daily meals, and preparations for winter occur. The stove and wood box sit in the middle of the floor, and the stove pipe sticks through the roof allowing the smoke to exit. This is used for cooking, heating water, and for warmth.
If you want heat, you feed the fire – every couple hours. All night long. We gave up on the first night trying to keep the fire going. We failed. Our ancestors, I’m sure, were rolling their eyes because we decided that it was easier to freeze than it was to keep feeding the wood-eating monster. Life in the ger is not all that easy. The temperature was about 38 degrees and in the morning we woke to seeing our breath hanging in the air.
Nemka, our guide, (bless her heart) would scurry in, set the fire, and get hot water started. After a cold trek to the outhouse (I use that term loosely), we would wash our faces, try to do something with our hair, and prepare for the day. Bucket showers are common, but many Mongolians will drive to the closest town to the public showers.
comforting these colors are during the long, harsh winter months.
Cold Nights
We wore as many layers to bed as were wrapped around the ger. I will say that, as westerners, we are not use to hard Asian-style beds. Travelers who need to sleep on fluff should plan to carry their own travel pad. At night, we could hear the goats and dogs laying against the canvas side so there must have been some warmth radiating from our ger. Of course, maybe the animals were doing their best to take care of the cold westerners by trying to share their heat. Maybe, per Andrew, they had to draw lots to decide who had to lay against the coldest ger! We discovered early on that using the indoor rope to fully close the roof flap is rather important in keeping excess cold air out.
Life in the Ger
Mongolian homes are beautifully decorated with colors of pink, orange, and blue. In all gers, beds are placed around the circular walls. Each family member has a drawer and space available under the bed for personal belongings or for school books. The beds are also used for guest seating. I told Andrew that it was a great idea because it encouraged bed making, and I got the ole eye-roll in return. There is definitely no room for hoarding. Babies do not have a ton of toys; instead, they are entertained with items used in daily life. Yet, they still grow up and become happy, mature adults without an entire play-ger full of toys. Imagine that!
TV and electronics were powered by solar panels.
The Evenings
The nomadic Mongolians work hard so the evenings are intimate and family oriented. Tables are often next to the stove, not only for warmth, but for easy food retrieval. Food and beverage are communal and meant to be shared – even with visitors. Andrew and I enjoyed our evenings when we all became one group. I think the Mongolians enjoyed watching us experience their home life as much as we felt honored to be a part of it.
Our hosts would pass around communal cups of homemade vodka, fermented mare’s milk, and a box of snuff. Then they would watch closely to see our reactions. A sour face would lead to realms of laughter, but a satisfied look, with a wipe of the sleeve to rid the remaining milk mustache, would bring whoops and laughter of praise. The first time that the communal cup round excluded Andrew, he became distressed. When I dipped a teaspoon handle into the fermented mare’s milk and let him taste it, all desire was instantly cured. I realize this could have backfired on me, but, luckily, Andrew decided the alcoholic taste was not worth the effort. Once he knew he wasn’t missing out, he found a quiet corner to read.
Sweet Dreams
The days are long and busy; evenings do come to an end. What is nice about retiring for the night is that it allows time to reflect and wonder what excitement the following day will bring!
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