There were many reasons why I chose to employ Eternal Landscapes guides and not travel Mongolia alone. First and foremost, Andrew had just had surgery and he was still recovering. Using a tour guide allowed Andrew to get the rest he needed. Otherwise, I would have hiked him from train to many trails and this probably would have lengthened his recovery time. My second reason was that I went to Mongolia to live with the people. I didn’t want to be just a tourist so sometimes it pays to let the natives take over.
Travel Considerations
I did a lot of research for our Mongolian trip. If I had been traveling alone, I would have let nature take its course. I like the freedom of letting the wind decide my path. My preferred plan would have been to take the train from Beijing to the Mongolian border. It was the one way to see the Gobi desert. From there, Ulaanbaatar was reachable by train or hitching a ride.
Andrew, however, creates a bit of a dilemma in many instances. Besides post-surgery recovery, I wasn’t sure what I would run into when traveling overland. The overnight bus had open-style couchette accommodations. However, I was worried about my 12-year old possibly having to watch some amorous couple. Then, there’s always those travelers who think that drinking is synonymous with backpacking. As I’ve gotten older, I find it more difficult to put up with the actions of some travelers.
Prader-Willi syndrome also tends to control decisions. Sharing transportation with strangers and not knowing what food they might break-out can cause trouble. Lots of trouble. So, while we were going to miss out on some exciting ground experiences, flying was our best choice. The fact that flying gave us extra days to experience Mongolia made me feel better.
Our Travel Goals
It is possible to travel inner Mongolia sans travel guide and driver although I’m not sure how. We never saw a single road sign. The roads are like trails that split and run off in different directions. Accommodations around Mongolia also offer tours for their guests. Both of these were possibilities but I had something different in mind. I wanted Andrew to understand what life was like for the nomadic people who lived on the steppe. In order to see ‘real’ Mongolia, I needed help finding host families and situations that was beyond my reach. Eternal Landscapes, Mongolia, helped me accomplish this goal.
Eternal Landscapes, Mongolia
I corresponded with eight different tour companies and chose Eternal Landscapes, Mongolia, also abbreviated as ‘EL’. Jess and Turro are the owners of EL and Jess was easy to work with. I told her what I was looking for and she didn’t try to offer me something else. Some companies would listen and then offer a tour that would ‘sort of’ accommodate some of my requests. I also wasn’t interested in forming a group and including other travelers. Less people meant more control over food and situations and this allowed me to keep the Prader-Willi beast at bay.
Jess never made my requests seem outlandish or impossible. Nor did she ever give me any impression that accommodating Prader-Willi syndrome would be any cause for concern. What helped me make my final decision was the fact that Eternal Landscapes employs and trains only natives. Community based tourism is their mantra and they lived up to what they promised.
Togo, Our Driver
Togo our driver, was great with Andrew. He had a son Andrew’s age and treated Andrew as if he were his own. This meant more to me than anyone could imagine.
Andrew and Togo in the Little Gobi Desert.
Nemka has become my Mongolian sister. Our first day in Mongolia, Nemka let me know that Andrew would be fine, and that I needn’t worry. I knew right then that no matter what ugly head the Prader-Willi monster portrayed, I was not alone! Togo and Nemka worked well together. Andrew and I enjoyed their banter and jokes and before nightfall on day one, we were a family.
Camels are the most awesome creatures on earth. They have personality and they aren’t afraid to use facial expressions.
Andrew and I fell in love with Mongolia and the people. The only way to see the culture was to travel with the natives. I wanted Andrew to return home with a sense of what it meant to be a nomad and a memory of their their daily lives. Eternal Landscapes provided that and more!
We’ll be your tour guide so that you can experience Mongolia without leaving your home. More posts about our experiences will be forthcoming. You can also read more at Mongolia, The Land of the Blue Sky.
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